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Customer Comments
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Radiator Modifications Page 1 It started with the valve cover removal to adjust the valves. I never liked the reservoir tank in the interior and I am planning on redoing the dash. So I removed the tank to take out the valve cover. There is allot of pluming associated with the reservoir tank which is cumbersome to work around. I also felt that the way the heater lines where set up was part of the problem for lack of heat in the winter month and to much in the summer. The mog was fitted with a heat exchanger for a swing fire heater which I don't intend to use. So I thought that the out lets on the engine that feed the heat exchanger would be good for the heater core. (Still remains to be seen if this works) The following picture will pretty much explain what is did. Note: While I was at it, I cleaned, degreased, and painted the engine, made some mods to the fuel system along with the electrical system and detailed some parts, as you may notice in some of the pictures. I will cover these mod in the same manner soon. Note: I have also thumb nailed all of the pictures and used multiple pages for faster loading in your browser. Click on pics to enlarge and use your back button on your browser to return. Note: This is best viewed with Microsoft Explorer and Netscape. (I hope) Some version may view incorrectly. If you have problems or see errors please let me know what they are and with what browser. I am fairly new at creating a website and have tried to keep this simple. After removing the reservoir tank, the swing fire heat exchanger, radiator and all of the associated plumbing and hose, I modified the radiator first by adding a filler neck. Note: filler neck has over flow side pipe to be connected to new remote reservoir. I have purchased a reservoir form the auto parts store for about $9.00 I am also changing my washer fluid system and have seen some tanks that have electric washer pumps and also include a coolant tank in one unit at the local junk yard. The filler neck and return plug where solder with map gas touch shown later in this set. Be sure to clean all surrounding areas and parts down to bare metal and use flux when soldering. Note: The radiator cap is rated for 16 lbs. of pressure. This was recommended by the radiator shop and seem to be working fine.
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