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Radiator Modifications

Page 3

 

The next step was to final install all of the components complete with new hose clamps. Note: I used marine grade hose clamps because they are all stainless. Many of the one sold in hardware stores and auto parts store have steel screw or housing and will rust rather soon. I feel this is cheep insurance.

Polished thermostat.jpg (50960 bytes) 

Gives nice effect under Metalcast paint, and will also look nice coated in mud.

Radiator_hose_final.jpg (54794 bytes) Radiator_hose_final_2.jpg (55451 bytes)

Unimog_After_2.jpg (31785 bytes)

AFTER

I have driven approximately 150 mi for a test run and have had no problems. Still heats up quickly and the temp gauge  is steady at 79-80 deg C.

The next part covers the heater core coolant lines. Now I was able to remove the coolant tank from inside the cab. I used the 2 side engine ports that normally are used for the swing fire heat exchanger to circulate the coolant thru the heater core. Making a reducer and using different pieces of radiator hose found at the local auto parts store I was able to complete the coolant system. Below are pics of the hose that I used and some of the adapters that I made from copper plumbing. 

Trimmed_coupler.jpg (51752 bytes) assemb_solderd_finished.jpg (37624 bytes) Heat exchanger fitting with copper.jpg (47563 bytes)

Bottom_heater_hose.jpg (49571 bytes) Heater Hose and number.jpg (49442 bytes) Heater hose trimmed.jpg (45636 bytes) 

Top heater hose.jpg (52634 bytes) bottom heater hose assembly.jpg (40853 bytes) Upper_heater_hose_to_block.jpg (51081 bytes) 

Bottom_heater_hose_test_fit.jpg (35221 bytes) Lower_heater_hose_final.jpg (49936 bytes) Top heater hose test fit.jpg (41904 bytes)

Upper_heater_hose_final.jpg (52906 bytes)

After driving during the winter months I found that the heat was not very warm. This was caused by the upper heater hose being higher than the top of the radiator, causing an air lock in the line not allowing coolant to flow thru the heater core. I first cut the upper U part of the heater hose and spliced in one of the original bleeder valves use on the mog, so that I was able to bleed the air out of the heater core. That made a significant difference in the amount of heat coming from the heater. The only problem was that I found that I needed to bleed the system almost every other time I drove the mog. So instead of having the heater core tube exit upward out of the foot well, I cut off the bend and extended it straight out the side of  the foot well and eliminated the bleeder valve. This made the top of the radiator the highest point, eliminated any air locks and greatly improved
my heat.

DSC00411.JPG (77371 bytes) DSC00410.JPG (67301 bytes) DSC00412.JPG (55545 bytes)

 I still plan on adding a heat core control valve like the ones located here.

http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?p=wi-heater-ht.val I plane on adding a heater for the back of the

mog and the valve can control the flow from front to back or off altogether for the summer.

Thank you for visiting. If you have any question please email me.

Mark

 

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